Comments for Phil Nelson Imaging, Connecticut Landscape and Architecture Photography http://philnelsonimaging.com Landscape Portrait Architectural Photography Portfolio and Blog Wed, 18 Apr 2012 12:18:10 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 Comment on Finally! A TTL Radio Flash System for Canon That Actually Works! by Phil Nelson http://philnelsonimaging.com/2012/01/04/phottix-odin/#comment-355 Phil Nelson Wed, 18 Apr 2012 12:18:10 +0000 http://philnelsonimaging.com/?p=835#comment-355 Agreed! Agreed!

]]> Comment on Finally! A TTL Radio Flash System for Canon That Actually Works! by DD http://philnelsonimaging.com/2012/01/04/phottix-odin/#comment-352 DD Tue, 17 Apr 2012 08:38:17 +0000 http://philnelsonimaging.com/?p=835#comment-352 I had the exact same experience with the Flex system. I just sold it and bought the Odins. I had the exact same experience with the Flex system. I just sold it and bought the Odins.

]]> Comment on Sooner or Later You Are Going to Lose Your Photographs by Max http://philnelsonimaging.com/2011/08/08/sooner-or-later-you-are-going-to-lose-your-photographs/#comment-351 Max Tue, 17 Apr 2012 07:22:44 +0000 http://philnelsonimaging.com/?p=343#comment-351 March 2, 2011It does make sense I would import the large floedr. Then as you go through the floedrs in Lightroom, you can remove the floedr from your catalog by right clicking on the floedr and choosing Remove.If you want to delete the floedr and its contents, you would need to click on the floedr, press G to go into Library mode and then press CTRL/CMD + A to select all the items and then right click on the items and choose Delete Photos. Then Lightroom will come up with a dialog and you will choose Delete from Disk. After the floedr is emptied, you can right click on it and choose Remove to remove it from your catalog. March 2, 2011It does make sense I would import the large floedr. Then as you go through the floedrs in Lightroom, you can remove the floedr from your catalog by right clicking on the floedr and choosing Remove.If you want to delete the floedr and its contents, you would need to click on the floedr, press G to go into Library mode and then press CTRL/CMD + A to select all the items and then right click on the items and choose Delete Photos. Then Lightroom will come up with a dialog and you will choose Delete from Disk. After the floedr is emptied, you can right click on it and choose Remove to remove it from your catalog.

]]> Comment on Sooner or Later You Are Going to Lose Your Photographs by Oxiem http://philnelsonimaging.com/2011/08/08/sooner-or-later-you-are-going-to-lose-your-photographs/#comment-350 Oxiem Tue, 17 Apr 2012 04:25:09 +0000 http://philnelsonimaging.com/?p=343#comment-350 So I'm curious, are you ohosting in RAW on a Mac? I can't seem to get tethering to funcion with canon's software. Near as I can tell from Canon's tech support, they didn't offer teathering for the 20D on the mac because Mac 10.4 had it built in -- but the Mac software only handles jpegs.If (in lightroom) I still have to shoot, remove the cf card, and put it in a card reader, then having a "watched folder seems pretty useless because I'd have to redirect the software to a new folder everytime I put a CF card in.I shoot primarily product work, and moving the card back and forth every time I shoot a test is becoming more of a pain -- thus tethering is a VERY important function to me. If you've figured out a way to simplify that using the watched folder, I'd like to know how. So I’m curious, are you ohosting in RAW on a Mac? I can’t seem to get tethering to funcion with canon’s software. Near as I can tell from Canon’s tech support, they didn’t offer teathering for the 20D on the mac because Mac 10.4 had it built in — but the Mac software only handles jpegs.If (in lightroom) I still have to shoot, remove the cf card, and put it in a card reader, then having a “watched folder seems pretty useless because I’d have to redirect the software to a new folder everytime I put a CF card in.I shoot primarily product work, and moving the card back and forth every time I shoot a test is becoming more of a pain — thus tethering is a VERY important function to me. If you’ve figured out a way to simplify that using the watched folder, I’d like to know how.

]]> Comment on Finally! A TTL Radio Flash System for Canon That Actually Works! by Ronaldo http://philnelsonimaging.com/2012/01/04/phottix-odin/#comment-349 Ronaldo Tue, 17 Apr 2012 00:03:39 +0000 http://philnelsonimaging.com/?p=835#comment-349 Do you know if the Odin tirggers the pre-flash with Canon felshas even when the flash is set for manual mode? I recently purchased the Odin triggers after reading your review and tried to use my light meter with the felshas set to manual mode. The photos were always way over exposed. I'm wondering if the pre-flash was being triggered, throwing off the light meter reading.If this is the case, do you know a way to prevent the pre-flash? I sent this question to Phottix a few weeks ago, but never received a response. Thanks for all your great tips and training videos!Vic Lewchenko Do you know if the Odin tirggers the pre-flash with Canon felshas even when the flash is set for manual mode? I recently purchased the Odin triggers after reading your review and tried to use my light meter with the felshas set to manual mode. The photos were always way over exposed. I’m wondering if the pre-flash was being triggered, throwing off the light meter reading.If this is the case, do you know a way to prevent the pre-flash? I sent this question to Phottix a few weeks ago, but never received a response. Thanks for all your great tips and training videos!Vic Lewchenko

]]> Comment on Finally! A TTL Radio Flash System for Canon That Actually Works! by Mayank http://philnelsonimaging.com/2012/01/04/phottix-odin/#comment-347 Mayank Mon, 16 Apr 2012 15:49:26 +0000 http://philnelsonimaging.com/?p=835#comment-347 Started with the Phottix Strato I and then got a set of the II's. Now just bought the Odin. Used Pocket Wizards for years and they were great but hated the annenta and how they stuck up on top of the camera. Very annoying. Tried the Flex ETTL Canon version, man did Pocket Wizard mess that up. Totally unrealiable. Sent them all back for a refund. Since I have had the Phottix units, no misfires, excellent construction and they work great for a lot less than the price of the Pocket Wizards. Sold all my PW's and am so happy I found these. Pocket Wizard needs to take a lesson from these guys! Started with the Phottix Strato I and then got a set of the II’s. Now just bought the Odin. Used Pocket Wizards for years and they were great but hated the annenta and how they stuck up on top of the camera. Very annoying. Tried the Flex ETTL Canon version, man did Pocket Wizard mess that up. Totally unrealiable. Sent them all back for a refund. Since I have had the Phottix units, no misfires, excellent construction and they work great for a lot less than the price of the Pocket Wizards. Sold all my PW’s and am so happy I found these. Pocket Wizard needs to take a lesson from these guys!

]]> Comment on Finally! A TTL Radio Flash System for Canon That Actually Works! by Amparo http://philnelsonimaging.com/2012/01/04/phottix-odin/#comment-346 Amparo Mon, 16 Apr 2012 15:38:18 +0000 http://philnelsonimaging.com/?p=835#comment-346 Phil,This really does sound good but I have a qsotuien about them. (I didn't ask at the factory because they might not want to find out.)Can you test if it works without a problem when a wireless home phone, that uses a similar frequency, is being used at the same time and close to the transmitter and/or the recievers.I have some real old Phottix units that seemed like they messed up in the basic transmission department. Maybe they were just bad units but a phone close by was being used at the time. I chalked them off as a lesson learned not to buy cheap stuff and haven't used them ever again. Phil,This really does sound good but I have a qsotuien about them. (I didn’t ask at the factory because they might not want to find out.)Can you test if it works without a problem when a wireless home phone, that uses a similar frequency, is being used at the same time and close to the transmitter and/or the recievers.I have some real old Phottix units that seemed like they messed up in the basic transmission department. Maybe they were just bad units but a phone close by was being used at the time. I chalked them off as a lesson learned not to buy cheap stuff and haven’t used them ever again.

]]> Comment on Sooner or Later You Are Going to Lose Your Photographs by Shuaib http://philnelsonimaging.com/2011/08/08/sooner-or-later-you-are-going-to-lose-your-photographs/#comment-342 Shuaib Sun, 15 Apr 2012 22:34:19 +0000 http://philnelsonimaging.com/?p=343#comment-342 Need your opinion on this:I'm again lonkiog for a photography software nowadays, switching back and forth between ACDSee Pro and Lightroom which are the best in the business as far as i'm concerned.I'm no professional photographer, just your average guy holding a mediocre bridge (Fuji S5800) and taking quite a few pics from time to time. I do like photography a lot, learning and experimenting everyday, but my photos are no pieces of art. I do try to get the best from my crappy camera and even post-process a lot, but the pixel-altering , destructive editing is much more convenient for me. After all, after all these years, seldom i come back to look at some pic i took on a summer evening, these are not so important photos and there's no reason for me to keep track on both versions of pictures: originals and edited. I always (and exclusively) need just one version: the final one that gets on the backup DVD . The rest gets deleted.Of course, Photoshop is a great pixel-altering tool, but for batch editing, even considering creating hundreds of scripts for every adjustement i ever make is a no-no.So, ACDSee Pro let's me do destructive editing in Edit Mode , and the 5th version finally has Dodge and Burn, but i always felt that Lightroom was better in terms of speed and confortable photography workflow. But it won't do destructive editing. And i know i can easily export the edited versions somewhere on the HDD for sharing and backup, but here we go again: edit originals -> export edited -> share edited -> delete originals, it's just a pain, if you know what i mean.SOOO, from your experience, is there a way to force Lightroom 3 to easily overwrite the originals with edited, or is there another piece of software outthere i could use that meets my personal needs? You can reach me on my e-mail when you have spare time for a response.Thank you a lot. Need your opinion on this:I’m again lonkiog for a photography software nowadays, switching back and forth between ACDSee Pro and Lightroom which are the best in the business as far as i’m concerned.I’m no professional photographer, just your average guy holding a mediocre bridge (Fuji S5800) and taking quite a few pics from time to time. I do like photography a lot, learning and experimenting everyday, but my photos are no pieces of art. I do try to get the best from my crappy camera and even post-process a lot, but the pixel-altering , destructive editing is much more convenient for me. After all, after all these years, seldom i come back to look at some pic i took on a summer evening, these are not so important photos and there’s no reason for me to keep track on both versions of pictures: originals and edited. I always (and exclusively) need just one version: the final one that gets on the backup DVD . The rest gets deleted.Of course, Photoshop is a great pixel-altering tool, but for batch editing, even considering creating hundreds of scripts for every adjustement i ever make is a no-no.So, ACDSee Pro let’s me do destructive editing in Edit Mode , and the 5th version finally has Dodge and Burn, but i always felt that Lightroom was better in terms of speed and confortable photography workflow. But it won’t do destructive editing. And i know i can easily export the edited versions somewhere on the HDD for sharing and backup, but here we go again: edit originals -> export edited -> share edited -> delete originals, it’s just a pain, if you know what i mean.SOOO, from your experience, is there a way to force Lightroom 3 to easily overwrite the originals with edited, or is there another piece of software outthere i could use that meets my personal needs? You can reach me on my e-mail when you have spare time for a response.Thank you a lot.

]]> Comment on Sooner or Later You Are Going to Lose Your Photographs by The Monday Herd | For the Photogs » Connecticut Dog Photography | Ty Foster Photography http://philnelsonimaging.com/2011/08/08/sooner-or-later-you-are-going-to-lose-your-photographs/#comment-337 The Monday Herd | For the Photogs » Connecticut Dog Photography | Ty Foster Photography Mon, 02 Apr 2012 17:08:12 +0000 http://philnelsonimaging.com/?p=343#comment-337 [...] was going to write up a large post on why you should, need and MUST read this excellent PDF by Phil Nelson, but I’ll let him do the [...] [...] was going to write up a large post on why you should, need and MUST read this excellent PDF by Phil Nelson, but I’ll let him do the [...]

]]> Comment on Finally! A TTL Radio Flash System for Canon That Actually Works! by Preetham http://philnelsonimaging.com/2012/01/04/phottix-odin/#comment-324 Preetham Thu, 22 Mar 2012 18:10:56 +0000 http://philnelsonimaging.com/?p=835#comment-324 I would like to buy them this weekend, but before I do I wanted to ask a question. When the flash is connected to the camera eg via a cord in manual mode you can see the distance scale on the speedlite thus helping to gauge where to place the flash and power up and down changing flash distance. Does the same happen in manual mode with the phottix odin transmitter. This is important feature for me and would not want to buy it otherwise. Thanks for the great article. Do send me an email if you need to. I would like to buy them this weekend, but before I do I wanted to ask a question. When the flash is connected to the camera eg via a cord in manual mode you can see the distance scale on the speedlite thus helping to gauge where to place the flash and power up and down changing flash distance. Does the same happen in manual mode with the phottix odin transmitter. This is important feature for me and would not want to buy it otherwise.

Thanks for the great article.

Do send me an email if you need to.

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